Showing posts with label Logistics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Logistics. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Logistics

There is not much to the logistics to this trek. It is very straightforward.

Getting there
We started in Pokhara. If you start in Kathmandu I'd suggest going to Pokhara anyway. From there we took a Lumbini tourist bus (it leaves early in the morning) and got off in ButwalIt passes through Tansen on the way. Quite a dramatic route, or if you prefer a route with some quite big drops off the side of the road.

From Butwal we walked no more than 300m up a side road that joined the main road at that point. There we hopped onto a bus to Bhaluwang. which left at virtually the same instant. I just had time to snaffle a bottle of water and a few samosas at a nearby stall.

Despite there being an evening bus onwards, but given the time of day (after 4pm) , we decided to stay overnight in Bhaluwang. There was a reasonable choice of places to sleep and places to eat. And some shops for a few extras.

The next morning a bus left (pretty much at the advertised time) at 8am for Sulichaur. This was our starting trailhead. There is a rough road already past this point, but we were keen to start walking. We started walking after some snacks, tea and a water refill at about 2pm.

Getting away
We walked out to Musikot (also known as Khalanga). The bus to Kathmandu (costing nearly 2000 NRs) left at 11am the next morning so we found a reasonable hotel room and made the most of the town. There were lots of shops and a good place for chai and samosas. It seemed like a major world city after the simplicity of the trail. 

The bus to Kathmandu took 24 hours and was, putting it mildly, slightly gruelling. The trip included several unscheduled stops, 3 or 4 punctures and a broken down logging truck blocking the road for a couple of hours. However we arrived alive with our luggage, and for that can be grateful. 

The bus deposited us on the ring road (I used my GPS to determine the closest point to our destination), and despite our fatigue we decided to walk into town. This took about 45 mins with each of us hoping to be the first to "spot a foreigner". Which we eventually did as we entered Freak Street.

An alternative
In Musikot the airstrip is at an alarming angle. Don't say you haven't been warned.

"Plan B" exits
There are a number of places where you could get some form of transport out early if necessary. See the Map. It will be slow and uncomfortable and not running to much of a schedule. But you will eventually get there. With luck!

When to go?
I have only done this once and that was in April. It was a good time; generally dry with pleasant temperatures. 

In Winter (say November-February) it might be clearer over the mountains but much cooler at night, which might require a warmer sleeping bag. Even in April, there was some snow on the trail, and you would very likely encounter more in the cooler months. At the very least it would be deeper on a couple of the passes, and I'd recommend heavier (or at least warmer) footwear as well.

During the monsoon (rather variable but let's say June to September) it would be greener, but obviously more likely to be wet - perhaps very wet at times. Transport can be both less certain and more hazardous. On the other hand there is a good chance of more festivals, though establishing the timing of these would be tricky at a distance.

There are no rivers where you have to wade, but higher river levels would rather spoil the hot bath I took near the village called Pokhara.

Information

Getting information on any trekking in Nepal is fraught with the problem of self-serving agencies, who pretend to offer “Tourist Information” but only want to sell stuff. The actual tourist office is not much use except perhaps for transport options. 

Reliable information comes mostly from meeting foreigners who have recently done a route. Or it comes from locals on the spot as long as they do not have an agenda. Mostly people are friendly and helpful, within the limits of your mutual language skills.

Saturday, January 17, 2015

Accommodation

Home stay

We slept every night except one in a house. The exception being a small shelter when one of us was sick and we couldn’t make it over the pass. 

In the houses we sometimes got a room to ourselves, sometimes we were on the floor with the family and sundry animals (and insects). It was good to have a mattress and a sleeping bag, though not absolutely essential if you are prepared to rough it and risk some uncomfortable nights. Sometimes we had a mattress and a quilt. You’d have to be very weight averse to take absolutely nothing with you.

The first thing that you need to do when you arrive in the village where you hope to spend the night is find a place to stay. Given our limited language skills this was mostly conducted with gesture, though it took us a while to get this right. Place your hands flat on your ears and lean your head over to indicate sleeping. If you place both hands together (as we did initially) it looks to Nepalis rather like a weird greeting (Namaste). 

Sometimes people will ask you to come to their house, at other times my daughter would approach a group of women and ask them herself. Ultimately we were always successful. Patience and a ready smile will get you through.


Camping

We didn’t take a tent, and didn’t really need one. A camping trip would have been a very different experience. My tent is only about 750g so this would not be a significant weight issue (given that I already had cooking gear and a mattress) more a change of style. 

We would have been both more independent, more secluded, but also less in contact with people and would have missed seeing how they lived. I’m not sure about the relative safety aspects. I doubt that there are many wild animals (large cats or bears) that would be a personal threat but certainly there might be a few creatures out there who would be interested in your food. In these situations I usually hang food up between two trees (assuming there are trees) using a long cord. 

On the plus side it vastly increases your flexibility and might even encourage you to go a bit further afield and off trail for a nice viewpoint in the morning. There are safety issues. Humans being the major threat, and I’d be very cautious about when and where I did this. Basically I’d either do it publicly within the protection of a household, or be well out of sight when I go off trail to find a spot for the night.

Food


Unless you are planning a porter supported trek, you’ll be eating locally along the way, as we did. We supplemented this with food bought in Pokhara and a few things we were able to buy en route.


In a home stay you eat what you are given and you are grateful for it. Especially given that this region is generally rather poor in food resources. It will be simple (if repetitive) but for some breakfast can be a little challenging. It makes sense to supplement your diet with some extras, most especially food for midday meals, snacks and hot drinks which might not be available when and where you need them. 

There are a few shops but with a rather limited range of food that you can both carry and consume without cooking. Biscuits and packet noodles being the main items. However there are some healthy options. Things like Powa (beaten rice) and roasted hemp seeds which are both nutritious and delicious. You may need to get the hemp seeds roasted in a house, though my favourite chai shop in Pokhara will also do it for me.

As well as a half a dozen shops we did encounter some places that, somewhat generously, you could call restaurants. You just have to make do with whatever they have, which isn’t much and is rarely very healthy. There will be no menu. On the other hand it is authentic, if fried packet noodles can be so called.

Overall it is a matter of simply forcing in sufficient calories without getting sick and hanging on long enough to get back to the relative luxury of Kathmandu or Pokhara. When all else fails there is boiled rice and sometimes bananas.

The extra food I carried consisted of: 

  • Cashew nuts, Almonds
  • Dried fruit (figs, raisins, prunes)
  • Biscuits
  • Cheese (first few days only)
  • Beaten rice (Powa)
  • Packet noodles, “Bombay Mix”
  • Tea bags, Powdered Milk, Chai Spices and Jagri (raw sugar)
  • Fresh ginger (when I could get it)
  • Garlic